The Details of a Luxury Handmade Wallet
When you hear the words “luxury handmade wallet” tossed around, what comes to mind?
I’ve used that term often, but I thought it was worth taking a moment to break it down and explain what actually sets apart a true heirloom piece from the “luxury” wallets you’ll find at brands like Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford, Saint Laurent, and others.
Hand-Stitched vs. Machine-Stitched
The main reason I started making wallets for myself was simple: I wanted something that would last. The obsession with the details came later—after I discovered traditional French and Japanese leatherwork techniques.
The stitching method you see above is called saddle stitching. It uses two needles and a single piece of thread that passes through every hole from both sides, interlocking inside the leather. If one stitch ever breaks, the rest stay in place. That’s not the case with machine stitching, where a break can cause an entire row to unravel.
Each stitch is carefully measured, spaced, and pierced using a pricking iron or sewing awl. These tools, and the techniques behind them, can take years to master.
Even though hand-stitching takes significantly longer than using a machine, I’ve found it produces the best outcome for smaller handmade goods like wallets, card holders, and watch straps.
It’s a process that reminds me it’s okay—actually, better—to slow down. One step at a time.
Full-Grain, Vegetable-Tanned Leather
There are two types of leather most people are familiar with: the real stuff and the “real” stuff. The second kind is what you’ll usually find at the mall, which is corrected grain, bonded, or chrome-tanned leather that’s been shaved, split, and coated with plastic to hide imperfections. It might feel soft, even look good for a while, but it breaks down fast and won’t age gracefully. It’s fast fashion in hide form.
Full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather is a different story. This is the highest quality leather you can get—cut from the outermost layer of the hide, where the strongest fibers are. It hasn’t been sanded or corrected. It’s tanned using natural tannins from tree bark and leaves in a process that can take over a month. No shortcuts.
What that means practically: it develops character. Instead of cracking or peeling, it patinas. The oils from your hands, sunlight, time—they all leave a mark. It becomes yours.
It also smells incredible. Like an old library, a whiskey barrel, or a saddle left out in the sun. If you know, you know.
I source from all over the world, but the leathers I return to most often come from Italy. They feel the best in the hand and wear in beautifully. There’s something unmistakable about it. Durable, rich, and unmistakably refined.
Edges that are Burnished, Not “Covered”
Most “luxury” brands machine-cut the edges and paint them with a plastic-like edge coat that chips off with use. It’s quick, it’s clean, and it looks good in a showroom.
But hand-burnished edges are different. The edge is sanded smooth, creased for detail, then rubbed—sometimes with canvas, sometimes with bone or wood—until it’s glassy. Some makers use burnishing agents, beeswax (like mine), or even just water. The process takes time, but the result is permanent.
It’s the difference between paint and polish. One sits on top. The other works into the material and becomes part of it.
The Difference is in the Feel
People often ask why handmade wallets cost more. The short answer is time. The long answer is: because when you hold one, you’ll feel it. The weight of the leather. The tension in every stitch. The edge that doesn’t snag. The patina that develops in year three. You’ll stop thinking about price and start thinking about the person you’ll pass it down to.
If you are interested in commisioning a custom wallet for either yourself or someone else as a gift, please get in touch.
